Miss Eleanor
Miss Eleanor wears a First Bustle Era Janet Arnold dress.
“Miss Eleanor is a “well-known high society witch” – brilliant, glamorous, vivacious, queen bee, social climber, and absolutely ruthless. Her specialism is charms and her familiar is a blackbird.”
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Design sketch based on a Janet Arnold dress
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All the bodice pieces - split up differently than in the original dress, for ease of getting on and off a doll.
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The bodice comes in half, joined with a tiny slither of velcro: Miss E can't wiggle the way a real human can. There's an inner layer of calico that the outer fabrics are backed onto, and subtle shaping with the iron to give it a sense of body.
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Self-drafted hat! Several layers of calico quilt-stitched together for stiffness, plus outer fabric and shaping with the iron. The hat holds its shape through ironwork & needle sculpting:
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Finished! Belt buckle is a bit of bra strap, painted; the wing is machine-embroidered. Next steps: an Edwardian grand dame is not complete without an outrageous hat and accessories, which will be completed in shades of marooon and brassy gold – feathers, and sinister flowers.
Skills
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Draping & Fit
A doll body is not a human body: the pattern was adapted to her shape, and redesigned to allow it to be put on and removed from a solid body
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Style adaptation
Pattern was based on Janet Arnold’s 1880 dress, but adapted to better suit Miss Eleanor’s scale, and to incorporate design features from other dresses I liked
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Construction
I self-drafted the hat from scratch. The jacket is backed with interfacing, using techniques learnt from the Victorian Tailor on a smaller scale. Hand-sewing is used throughout for detail. I discovered the art of steaming the skirt ruffle for a dramatic effect, after the first merely gathered ruffle looked limp
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Colour Blocking
I studied fashion plates from the era, plus modern books on design, to balance the colours and highlight style lines with ruffles and contrast ribbons
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Revealing Character
The idea of “high society witches” amused me: an Austen-style period drama about marriage, property, and social graces, but they’re all witches. I made some character sketches. I combined the witches hat with Victorian extravagant millinery, and chose rich/dangerous colours to express her vibrant personality – snake green, scarlet, brassy green
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Practice makes Perfect
I enjoyed working on doll-scale – a low-cost way of experimenting with styles, fit and techniques, to prepare for the challenges of creating a full-scale dress. I have learnt that Vionette habitually designed at smaller scales, and am budgeting for a more “human-like” doll to further my practice at this.
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